Equipment

thinking of getting bees · Sun Jun 13, 2004 9:31 am

I am curious as to the need to have two deep hive bodies and one super on the hive for brood and stores. In several of the trade supply magazines, i notice that this is the set up that they push.

Also, what strain of bees do most people use in this area.

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 5:08 am

Sorry for the late post.

Well as with many topics in beekeeping, there is no one answer.
Most beekeepers use one deep and a shallow for their brood chamber. Some will run double deeps, but this seems to be overkill for the Piedmont Triad area of NC. It is recommended to allow the bees 40 lbs of honey to overwinter and sometimes needs to be supplemented with additional feedings to get them through the winter.
Anything more would be needed for honey storage during the honeyflow which starts around April 15.
I would say that most people still use the Italian honeybee which has proven itself to be gentle and a good producer.

I hope this information has proven useful. Please continue to post any questions you may have.

Kurt

visitor · Post by **visitor** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 8:39 am

Does anyone in this area use the Russian bees that are mentioned in the news letter? If they are truely resistant to mites, that would be good, but what about their spring build-up, gentleness, and honey production?

guest · Post by **guest** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 7:57 pm

I was also wondering if you could give me an answer to a multi-part question? With all of the mites, nosema, foul brood, wax moths, ants, small hive beatles, sac brood, and other problems that I have yet to read up on, how hard is it to keep honey bees? I would like to have a couple of hives for enjoyment, and for the pleasure of watching them work and do their thing, but the more I read, the more it seems like pure work to even keep the poor little critters alive.

Realistically, how expensive, and time consuming would it be to keep two hives running and in great health?

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Tue Jun 29, 2004 10:58 am

There are a few members in the Guilford County Beekeepers Association that currently have Rusian bees. I think it is a little early to tell, but good things are being reported about this particular strain. No bee is currently totally resistant to mites, but the Russian does show some resistance. Treatment will still be necessary if you were to choose them.
In American Bee Journal, June 2004, there were some positive test results that continue to give the Russians high marks.
Honey bees are sometimes more easy to have than to keep. I guess like any other form of farming, they are a lot of hard work, but come with great rewards and satisfaction. Dont let the problems concern you too much. Most things are simply a matter of monitoring and taking appropriate action when necessary. Be prepared for a set back every now and then but dont let it get to you.
The bees would give you a lot of satisfaction and can be very theraputic, especially when they sting you!

There are also many beekeepers around that will help to get you through any problem areas. If I can do it any one can. I currently have around 17 hives and will continue to keep bees for the forseeable future.

2 hives including all the gear would probably run you around $300 for startup cost. Keeping them healthy would probably run you around $6 per hive for medication per year. You will also have to feed them at some point which will add bean additional cost of $15-20 per year per hive.(this may be a high estimate depending on how things are done)

Let me know if I can be of assisstance.

Kurt

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:10 pm

However, tracheal mite levels
rose dramatically in the second year for the domestic bees,
whereas the Russian bees remained at or near zero mite levels.
The last sampling period showed that an average of 13.3
± 20.7% of the domestic workers were infected, compared to
an average of 0% of the Russian workers. Clearly, workers of
the Russian strain have a natural tolerance to tracheal mites.

Is the above a less than accurate statement? This is a quote from the latest news letter that informed that the Russian bees in a study in Louisianna had given indication that the mites were 0% as a result of the study, in comparison to the other colonies.

Another question is where do most beekeepers in this area buy hive components and stuff. I have white coveralls, veil, smoker, and gloves.

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 4:21 am

Well I would have to be in agreement. THe only thing negative that I have heard about the Russians is that they may be difficult to introduce during requeening efforts. It seems that otherwise they are showing some distinct advantages.

Currently, the NC inspectors are not putting much interest in tracheal mite levels. They have indicated that tracheal mites do not seem to be a major killer. Tracheal mites are also very easy to treat for and so most do not see them as a real threat to the health of their honeybees.
A lot of winter losses have been very difficult to explain so I would not rule the tracheal mites out.

As for beekeeping supplies the list is as follows:

Dadant- Lynchburg, VA 1-800-220-8325 http://www.dadant.com/beekeeping/index.html

Brushy Mountain Bee Farm- Brushy Mountain, NC 1-800-BEESWAX
http://beeequipment.com/

Norton's Nut and Honey farm (Brushy distributer)
Reidsville, NC (336) 342-4490

Busy Bee Apiaries- Jack Tapp (Brushy distributer)
email - busybeeofnc@bellsouth.net
Chapel Hill, NC (919) 942-2006

I myself use Busy Bee Apiaries because they are closer for me. Shipping is expensive, so try to pick up everything that you can.

I also notice that you continue to sign in as a visitor. Please take time to become a member. It's easy and free!

Hope this has helped,

Kurt

Ron · Post by **Ron** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 7:19 am

Thanks for all the advice. What part of the county do you keep your bees. I noticed that on the swarm collection map that your name is prodominately on the east side of the county. I live in Mcleansville.

When you say that the problem with Russian bees is associated with re-queening, do you mean that the colony will not accept the queen or what? How often do you re-queen your hives? I was never able to find the queen when I kept bees in High School. That is one area that I would need practice on.

Ron · Post by **Ron** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 6:16 pm

One question I have neglected to ask is, How much shade or sun or combination or each do bees need. In the mountains where I grew up it really did not matter about shade, they could be in straight sun all day. I live in a field for all practical purposes, and I may not even have a suitable place to keep bees.

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Tue Jul 06, 2004 4:41 am

Hi Ron!
Great to hear from you again!

I live on the other side of I 40/85 in the Julian area. Still in Guilford county, but pretty far out. You would definately be a candidate for Jack Tapp at Busy Bee. I can get there in 35 minutes from my place. If I am going that way any time I will post and let you know. I dont mind picking up for other people if I am going that way.
You are right about the requeening thing. With Russians it takes a little longer. (sometimes the release is delayed for up to 10 days to help introduce her) There are beekeepers all over the county that would be happy to help if you need it! I have had difficulty finding the queen in a Nuc before. Talk about embarrassing.
Standard practice around here would be to have the bees in the sun in the morning, but shaded in the afternoon. If location is your biggest concern about keeping bees, dont worry. They do pretty well regardless. If possible it would be nice to place them at they edge of the field near some trees.
I know one guy who has been keeping his bees on his roof and is quite successful. They can handle full sun. Screened bottom boards seem to help a lot with ventilation. The bees wont hang out on the porch like they will with a standard bottom board.

regards,

Kurt

Ron · Post by **Ron** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 11:39 am

That is good to here. I have a nice lot as far as getting sun on the bees early in the day. They will have full sun by 7:30 in the morning around this time of the year. They may get some shade during the middle of the day and then after about 4:30 they will start getting full shade.
Have you began to take honey off this year? What is the prodominate honey flow in this area? With just starting, having new foundation, packaged bees and queen, how many supers do I need to plan on having for the first year per hive?

I am going to be out of town for a week, so I will not be on until around the 18th of 19th. Thanks again for the information.

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Thu Jul 08, 2004 4:16 am

Hi Ron!

Sounds like an ideal site for the bees.

I started harvesting honey around the first of June and still have quite a bit to take off.
Around here you can expect the Tulip poplar and clover to be the main sources. I think the blend is exceptional and everyone I know loves the taste. The honey flow starts around April 15th, so you have to be ready early.
If you plan on starting next spring you will have to decide how you are going to acquire bees. (nuc, package, swarm etc...) a 3 lb package which is most popular is not likely to yield any honey the first year, especially if started on foundation. It can happen, particularly if your bees are heavily fed going into the flow. Depending on shallows or mediums, I would recommend 2 or 3 supers per hive besides whatever you are going to use for the brood chamber.
Have a great trip!

Kurt

Ron · Post by **Ron** » Mon Jul 19, 2004 11:14 am

I am back in town. Hope all is well.

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 4:38 am

Hi Ron! Hope that all went well!

Ron · Post by **Ron** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 5:07 pm

Have you began to take off honey since we last spoke?
Do you extract the most of your honey or do you do some cut comb? I recall some honey i took off in High School that was most likely all poplar, and it was so dark that you could barley see through it. What is the color of most honey in this area?

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 5:06 am

Ron:

Yes I have extracted all of my honey! At this point I still extract instead of doing cut comb or something else. I believe that there is a market for cut comb and know of only one woman doing it locally.
You are correct about the Tulip Poplar. It is extrememly dark and seems to have a red tint to it.
Most honey ends up as a blend around here and will be sold as an amber color. Mine seems to vary from light to dark.
It is always a fine flavor and everyone seems to enjoy it. Once they have tasted it, the stuff from the store doesnt seem to cut it any more!