Going In The Hive

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Locust&Honey

Going In The Hive

Post by Locust&Honey »

Ok. Time for a question to help me plan ahead. The two full blown hives that I just purchased, I put one super on each. When I go to check on the hive next week, what am I going to look for? Do I take the super off to look down in the hive body? Do I just do a look see?? It is rainy and cold today so I went right up to the entrance and looked at the bees that were stiil up front. They had brought some of the dead out and deposited outside the hive on the bottom board. They would peek out and drink some of the water that was on the bottom board. It appeared that no water was running back into the hive so I feel great about the leveling of the hives. Please post some responses to my questions so I can develop a game plan for next week. And by the way... Wally can't you at least get those STUPID posts off the site. I don't know how much longer I will continue to post if this crap is on here. Can't exactly have the kids around when I pull it up. Thanks for your help the other day. 8)
ski
Guard bee
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Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:40 am
Location: Whitsett, NC

Post by ski »

Hey L&H



WOW you have an established colony that’s cool. :)
I would proceed as follows, I hope somebody catches anything I screw up.

I would suggest keeping a log book of date times and what ever what you see in every detail at first.

After removing the outer and inner cover look for any activity in the top super. Hmm do you have a queen excluder – no too early for that. Do you have wax in the top super?

Hive top feeder?

Anyway look for comb being drawn out in the top super, if there is comb, is there honey or eggs. Look for the queen. But if you see eggs the queen was there at least 3 days ago.

Remember the 7 – 10 rule – when 7 of 10 frames are getting full add another super but you knew that.

Remove the honey or top super and pull a frame out of the bottom super again look for brood in various forms, look for the queen or eggs. Keep the frame over the box in case the queen falls off. Maybe you have already checked these a few days ago if so may not want to disturb them again? If not pull afew more frames again looking for capped brood, eggs, a good laying pattern.

Look for swarm cells.

Are the frames in the bottom box full of brood.

Look for any deformed bee wings. When was the last check for mites? May be a sifting of powered sugar would be a good check to see where the mite count is. Do another check in 2 weeks to get a trend.

Scrape off any burr comb that might be in the way. Put it in a can and not on the ground as it will attract ants.

Are you feeding sugar syrup or patties? I am not sure if you need either on an established colony. Although Kurt indicated he likes to push the feed?

These are some things I can think of off the top of my head.

Wish I had my bees. :)

These questions ar great practice for me.

Thanks,
Ski
Locust&Honey

Post by Locust&Honey »

Ski

I want to feed but have a few questions. By the way thanks for the reminder on the log book. I started one and it does help. I won't go into them until it warms up. It has been cold the past two days and I don't want to stress them. What can I feed them? I have a entrance feeder but everyone in the class knocked them. My uncle has 10 hives and that is all he uses. He doesn't seem to ever have a problem with his bees either. Can I feed molasses??? Or would you stick to sugar water? I don't think I want to get into the patties. The bees were out this morning when the sun rose and was on the front of the hives. I just checked them out now and they aren't out like this morning, probably due to the sun about to set. Thanks for all the help on what to look for. I will continually be asking all kinds of questions until I feel comfortable with what I am doing. When I get my next hive, which will be a swarm from my uncle, where would you place the hive??? Next to the others or away from the others? Will they rob the new hive??? Let me know what you think. These questions are to anyone who wants to comment also. Thanks again for all your help.
Kurt Bower
Guard bee
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Location: Julian, NC
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Post by Kurt Bower »

Sorry for the garbage.
I continue to employ techniques but he fact is these people are spammers.
If it truly gets to be a problem, then I totally understand about you leaving the forum.
I will probably disband the forum altogether if it gets as bad as I saw it today.
I spent 45 minutes cleaning it up.

Kurt
ski
Guard bee
Posts: 1018
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:40 am
Location: Whitsett, NC

Post by ski »

Kurt,

I didn't know who the admin was for this site and didn't think anything was being done. :cry: I like the idea of the guilford county site but it doesn't seem to be very active. Thanks for your efforts. :)


Hey L&H

Feeding and how to feed seems to be one of those no right answer type of questions.
The broadman feeder has got a lot of criticism not just in class but in the other forums like beesource and beemaster. A lot of it makes sense like the robbing that may take place if the feeder leaks. It may leak from thermal expansion and it may not lol. If you have some you MAY want to try one and see how it goes but you may want to keep a close eye on it.
I have a hive top feeder from Reels supply Wally may have some for sale, I am not sure. I am going to use the hive top feeder for one hive and for the other hive (neither of which I have lol) I got some chicken water dishes that hold about a gallon. I saw someone on beesource that used them so I thought I would give them a try. They will set on top of the inner cover or on top of the frames. I got the water dishes for free from my in laws in Ga that went out of the chicken business.
What to feed? I think I am going to keep it simple at first and feed the 1:1 sugar water for the spring. I am going to steal an idea I saw at wally's where he used an old turkey fryer to make his syrup in. That guy is full of great ideas. The Turkey fryer will keep me out of the wife's kitchen.

The other hive can be placed any place you like it to be. You can see pictures of hives jammed up against each other on pallets or 10 -15 feet apart. I would place them 10-15 feet apart if I could may cut down on drifting. But do what is comfortable for you, it sounds like you have a good place for bees.

Have you considered moving any frames around in your hive some call it checker boarding? Putting empty frames in the brood chamber and brood frames in the second box to keep the brood chamber open.
ski
Guard bee
Posts: 1018
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:40 am
Location: Whitsett, NC

Post by ski »

L&H

If you don't already know about them here are two good bee forums.

http://www.beesource.com/forums/

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php
Kurt Bower
Guard bee
Posts: 692
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:04 pm
Location: Julian, NC
Contact:

Post by Kurt Bower »

It is true that this forum is not too active.
The reason this local forum was created was not to compete with other larger forums, but to bring issues down to a local level.
Obviously, I can not relate to someone posting from Spain and I certainly do not have the same bee conditions from someone in Canada, California or even Florida.
Hopefully as time continues, we will gain members that desire in an open exchange with a local flavor.
I mean, what good does it do someone even in South Carolina if I tell them that I am going to Brushy Mountain tomorrow for an equipment run. It is not going to save them any shipping.
If used properly, this forum will truly help others by saving time, effort and money.
I also think that I have been able to effectively stop the trash coming in to our discussion board. Cross your fingers!

Kurt
No=-Bee's
Nursebee
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 6:58 pm
Location: McLeansville

I like the forum

Post by No=-Bee's »

I like the forum. I have really learned a great deal from this system. I hope it stays up and running.
Ron, "Now with bees"
ski
Guard bee
Posts: 1018
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:40 am
Location: Whitsett, NC

Post by ski »

I second that No=Bee's. I hope it stays up.

Ski


I continue to employ techniques but he fact is these people are spammers.
If it truly gets to be a problem, then I totally understand about you leaving the forum.
I will probably disband the forum altogether if it gets as bad as I saw it today.
I spent 45 minutes cleaning it up.

Kurt
Locust&Honey

Post by Locust&Honey »

Thanks Kurt. I hope it works. I have really enjoyed this forum. Can someone please give the info to make 1 gallon of sugar water???? The websites confuse me..... I want to feed my bees.... Kurt, please give me some advice on feeding. I want YOUR opinion. I tryst you guys and I know that I will eventuall do what I like but I don't even know what I like until I can try what other people tell me. Thanks...
Kurt Bower
Guard bee
Posts: 692
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:04 pm
Location: Julian, NC
Contact:

Post by Kurt Bower »

I am familar with only 3 types of mixtures.

wikipedia -

1:1 Syrup
1:1, or One-to-One syrup can be used for supplemental spring feeding and encourage the drawing of comb.

1 part (by weight) sugar
1 part (by weight) water
Simply stir sugar into room temperature water until all the sugar has dissolved to produce the desired quantity. The dissolving process will be sped up with hotter water, just be sure not to boil the sugar solution. One volume of water plus one volume of sugar when prepared equals roughly 1.5 volumes of syrup.


2:1 Syrup
2:1, or Two-to-One syrup can be used for fall feeding after the last honey harvest, or if the bees do not have a sufficiently large store of honey.

2 parts (by weight) sugar
1 part (by weight) water
The two parts sugar will not dissolve in room temperature water. Because of this mixing difficulty it is advisable to mix the sugar into near-boiling water. Do not allow the sugar mixture to boil, as this will give the chance for some of the sugars to caramelize, creating a partially indigestible and possibly even toxic solution as far as the bees are concerned. Be sure to let the solution thoroughly cool before feeding it to the bees. It was once common practice to add cream of tartar (tartaric acid) to 2:1 syrup to prevent re-crystallization of the sugars, however this is not recommended, as it is believed to shorten the life spans of the bees that consume it.

Most people do not use the following:


1:2 Syrup
1:2, or One-to-Two syrup can be used to stimulate brood rearing by simulating a nectar flow.

1 part (by weight) sugar
2 parts (by weight) water
Simply mix the sugar with room temperature water and feed the bees.


I hope this makes sense.

Kurt
Locust&Honey

Post by Locust&Honey »

Kurt, thanks for the info. I made me a batch and the bees are loving it. Thanks again. And thanks for cleaning the site up. This is such a benefit to have "locals" to talk to.

Ski

I wish you had your hives. I got home from work today and the bees were absolutely fascinating. They were EVERYWHERE, flying in and out. They were bringing back pollen. Some was BRIGHT, orangish-red and the other I noticed was almost gray. Almost every bee had "BB" sized pollen on their legs. I was sooo excited. I started to feed a 1:1 sugar water solution with my front hive feeders. That was all I had and wanted to get them started. They are all over my yard and in the field too. It made me want to go look in the super to see what work they had done in a week but I will wait until Thursday. My wife told me that when it first started to warm up this morning that the bees were all over the outside of the hive and flying around. She thought they were swarming. I hope they don't. I am not prepared for them yet. Hang in there...your bees will be here soon. :)
Wally
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Location: Randleman

Post by Wally »

Sorry I was not here to do my daily floor sweeping. Maybe the aproval method will work. It has to help.

Don't worry about the front feeders. They work fine on equal hives, and when there is a flow on.

Most robbing happens during a dearth, and between a strong and a very weak one.

Kurt layed out the mixtures well, si I will just add...Stay with the sugar water....No cola syrup, no molasses, no pancake syrup, only pure sugar and water. OR HONEY.
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