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What’s you best guess on when the main nectar flow will start? Thanks for the guess. Trying to time a cut down split.

Usually the main flow starts around mid-April. From the amount of things blooming now and the way my stronger hives are foraging, there may be something of a flow going now. I am not seeing a lot of burr comb or a lot of new white wax where bees could be drawing out or repairing old comb, so at least for now, I suspect a good portion of what they may be bringing in is feeding baby bees. If things stay relatively warm, with the overlap of late winter plants that are very late and blooming now, and early to normal blooming of spring nectar plants, the flow might start a little early. I noticed significant buds on my holly plants today. When they bloom, the bees really work them for nectar and I often get what I believe is holly honey.

So, tell me what that timing will be if flow is in two weeks. I was planning on doing a split today. Also. If I move a split to temporary site -over three miles at friends property, When can I return hive back to my apiary. ?

I'm not sure why you would move the split. True, the old foragers will return to the original hive site, but as long as you make sure the new site has pollen and nectar (sugar water) until nurse bees become foragers, things should work out. I just located the queen in a very strong hive and moved her, a frame of capped brood, a frame of open brood, several feed frames, and another 5 frames of open drawn comb, into a nuc. I will keep an eye on the strong original hive to see if they succeed at making a queen. In the mean time, foragers will go to it and will have less and less brood to feed while, hopefully, the flow begins. Brood interruption in the strong hive will also help with varroa. I can always recombine if the original hive fails to make a queen.

I haven't researched to give you a precise answer to when you can move hives back, but I don't think it takes very long for split hives to develop their own identity. My guess would be that after a week away, you could move it back--especially if you have a queen to supply to the one not keeping the original queen.

Anyone else with better information, please post.

I've always heard leave them 2 weeks, but on the other hand, I have heard they will reorient after 3 days. I'm like Jacobs. I think a week would do, but it is, to me, an unnecessary maneuver.

Jacobs, how did you get 10 or more frames in a nuc box?

Stacked a 2nd one on top of the first.

I have been using medium hives for everything. This year bought some deeps thinking if I caught a swarm they could draw out deep foundation. Of course, I'm trying to prevent my hives from swarming and may or may not trap a swarm in bait box. My question - what is best way to get the new foundation drawn? Other than buying a package of bees.

I did a split yesterday and put 4 medium frames of brood plus extra nurse bees in 8 frame deep box. Rest is deep foundation. Inhive feeder on top. Hoping bees eventually draw deep foundation. My plan is to use the comb they build under medium frames in mini mating box.

Getting comb drawn requires lots of young bees, lots of nectar or sugar water, warm weather, and bees that are numerous enough that they need space. This is also the scenario that can trigger swarm mode, especially if the brood area gets crowded. Swarms are really good for getting comb drawn since, initially, the have full stomachs of honey for comb building and are "programmed" to draw out comb at their new home location. If I get a decent swarm this season, I plan to put it to work drawing comb, if it will cooperate.

I'd say the flow has begun. Tulip poplar tends to be my gauge, but I'm already adding supers for honey. Several of my hives are already nectar bound even though they had plenty of room just a week before. This hive was only 4 deep coming from winter and now it's mostly filled with nectar (I stopped feeding them about a month ago).

Wow royl! I need you to come and give my bees an inspirational talk.

My strong hives have had foragers rocketing out for the last several days. I had put a honey super on them earlier, but plan on checking today to see if I need to an another super. Hope so.

I just saw tulip poplar opened flowers this morning in NW Alamance County

When its time to add another honey super, do I put it on top of the existing (nearly full) super or below it?

Thanks!

I would put it below. I think the bees like to complete an upper box of honey and then move down.

Will do.

Thanks!