Mite Checks

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:10 pm

Is anyone doing mite checks yet??? Can someone post on how to do a powdered sugar shake?? Any info on mite checks would be appreciated.

ski · Post by **ski** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:18 pm

I completed a 24 hour natural mite drop onto the slide in board under the screened bottom board.
I sprayed a sheet of plastic with PAM cooking spray and laid it on top of the board under the SBB. Waited 24 hours and counted 12 mites.
I did a sugar treatment today.
There is some interesting info on Beesource about how many mites you count from a natural drop to how many mites are in the hive.

I know we covered the sugar shake in class so it is written down somewhere.

Post by **Wally** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:24 pm

I haven't done any yet.

I use a plastic peanut butter jar with the large top. I cut the center from the lid and installed a screen into it, using 1/8th inch hardware cloth.

To test, I put 1 to 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar in the jar, then scoop about a cup of bees into it from the heaviest brooded frame I can find.
I shake and roll the jar for a minute, then let it set for about 5 minutes.
Shake and roll again and let it set again. Repeat for the third time.
Then I use a shiny hivetop or similiar, where the black mites will contrast with the background, and shake the sugar out like shaking a salt shaker, spreading it our over the area so it doesn't bury the mites. The mites will show up as black or brown dots in the sugar.

Clear as mud?????

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 4:57 am

Sounds easy enough. Just one question though, I just want to make sure, do I let the bees out after the third shake???

Post by **Wally** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 6:37 am

Pour the bees out last, after shaking the sugar out and counting the mites.

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 11:42 am

Sounds good. Thanks.

TJ · Post by TJ » Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:03 pm

According to the NCSU Beekeeping Note 2.01 on Disease Management Guidelines: During SPRING before honeyflow: You can just put a sticky board in bottom and if you count 40-80 mites per 24 hours, per sticky board then treatment is warranted. This, to me, is the easiest. Chemicals to use are Apistan or Checkmite+ as long as mites have not previously developed a resistance. You do this without honey supers on. Do not use thymol or formic acid as they can result in decreased brood. If doing sugar shake, if varroa levels are equal to or more than 2-3 mites per 100 adult bees then you want to treat. Summer/with honey supers: you can use sucrocide (or powdered sugar) to remove most mites and if you have a screened bottom board they should fall through. This should control until supers are off and you can treat in the fall. I have Russians and they are supposed to be resistant, although I have yet to do a check, which I will do soon and let you know. Then in Autumn sample frequently, once a month at least. If varroa levels are 5-6 mites per 100 adult beets OR 100-150 mites per 24 hours of sticky board treatment is warranted.

The only other note they have is to rotate treatments so the mites don't become resistant to one chemical with prolonged exposure. Good luck mite hunting, and don't let the hive-bugs bite

TJ

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:59 pm

Thanks. I didn't know about the thymol. I want to do fogging treatments with FGMO and thymol. I will read a little more before I do any. Thanks TJ!!

Post by **Wally** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:41 pm

Just between you and I, NCSU Beekeeping Note 2.01 can go fly a kite. I will continue to use FGMO and thymol, and they can keep their coumouphos, apistan, and other chemicals.

Remember, beekeeping is 90% personal choice. I choose natural when possible.

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:03 pm

Wally, don't you sell the FGMO and the thymol??? How much???

Post by **Wally** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:21 pm

$5.00 each for 50 grams thymol and 1 quart FGMO.

Kurt Bower · Post by **Kurt Bower** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 4:03 am

Formic acid and thymol based products such as Apiguard and Api-life Var are considered organic treatments.
I guess I would rather let my bees go broodless for a couple of weeks than to contaminate the bees and comb forever.
There are choices to make. The question is "what are you going to tell your customers about what is in your honey and how you take care of your bees?"
It makes a difference to the consumer and so it should make a difference to you. It is much harder to go backwards than to carefully go forwards.

Kurt

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:01 am

That is GREAT advice Kurt. Makes me want to buy some honey from you. When I run out I will visit you for honey. My wife wants to stop by the Farmers Market Saturday and see all the things you sell. Do you sell more than honey at the market???

I know you do on-line but what about the market?

TJ · Post by TJ » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:25 am

I'm a very natural girl! I was hoping to just use sucrocide, there have been really good results with it. I'm just going to try and keep it away from Queen and Brood when spraying. Every frame of bees have to be sprayed 3x within a week (I just read), so it's more labour intensive. Does anyone have experience with just using Sucrocide? I would be interested to know if I can get away with just using this or if they will get out of control if I don't treat with Formic Acid and Thymol in the fall?
I just read that the Food Grade Mineral Oil kills trachea mites, too. That's killing two birds with one stone and might be an even better option. Wally, can I come out sometime and help you do your treatments?

Thanks for the great info! (I see ol' 2.01 flying that kite out my window).

TJ

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Formic Acid (think latin word for ant, Formica)
Formic acid (systematically called methanoic acid) is the simplest carboxylic acid. Its formula is HCOOH or CH2O2. It is an important intermediate in chemical synthesis and occurs naturally, most famously in the venom of bee and ant stings.

In nature, it is found in the stings and bites of many insects of the order Hymenoptera, mainly ants. It is also a significant combustion product resulting from alternative fueled vehicles burning methanol (and ethanol, if contaminated with water) when mixed with gasoline. Its name comes from the Latin word for ant, formica, referring to its early isolation by the distillation of ant bodies. (COOL! - who would think to do this?). A chemical compound such as a salt from the neutralization of formic acid with a base, or an ester derived from formic acid, is referred to as formate (or methanoate). The formate ion has the formula HCOO−.

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Thymol (think thyme)
Thymol is a monoterpene phenol derivative of cymene, C10H13OH, isomeric with carvacrol, found in oil of thyme, and extracted as a white crystalline substance of a pleasant aromatic odor and strong antiseptic properties. It is also called "hydroxy cymene". (from Webster's 1913 dictionary)

It has been found to be useful in controlling varroa mites in bee colonies.[1]A minor use is in bookbinding: before rebinding, books with mould damage can be sealed in bags with thymol crystals to kill fungal spores. It is also used as a preservative in halothane, an anaesthetic.

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Sucrocide is made up of tobacco leaf extract and sucrose
octanoate esters, a sugar derivative. It works the same way as oxalic and formic acids do. These substances act on the outer shell of the mites to weaken it so that the mite actually dehydrates. Because the mite is so much smaller than a bee, the amount you use as a lethal dose for mites does not act the same way on the outer shell of the bee. Bees also groom. It has been approved for use anytime in the hive, even with the honey supers on.

Post by **Wally** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:28 am

Sucrocide is often referred to by beekeepers as suckercide. Why, I don't know, as I have never used it.

Yes, you can come down any time you want and I will let you practice fogging with FGMO and thymol. That's what is so nice about it. It can be done at any time, even with supers on. It takes about 3 seconds per hive, without opening the hive. It fights both T. mites and V. mites.

The invitation is extended to every one else, too.

TJ · Post by TJ » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:40 am

Thanks Wally! Anyone else interested in how this is done? We can arrange a date and time that suits everyone. TJ

ski · Post by **ski** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:32 am

A Fogging class / demo/ proper use of sounds great!

I think it was on bee source that someone was complaining about fireballs coming out of the fogger and burning up the hive. Proper use of a fogger would be a great thing for me and the bees that I may fog.

Ski

Locust&Honey · Post by **Locust&Honey** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:18 pm

I just posted this reply on another thread but here goes again. I want to be there for the fogging demo. If I can't make it someone record it for me. Wally, comb your hair and put on something nice. Your going to be star!!!

Post by **Wally** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 4:55 pm

No pictures other than when the fog covers me.
You can decide when you want to come. It takes all of about 3 minutes. I'm ready anytime. That's why I like it. It's quick, simple,"like me", and easy.

ski · Post by **ski** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 5:36 pm

Wally
Would this be something you would consider doing at a monthly Guilford County bee meeting ? Or would it be better with just a few of us at your place? Just a thought.