spinning honey in the fall and how many supers to leave.

p51d · Post by **p51d** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:44 pm

I was curious how many beekeepers spin honey in the fall, this time of year.

My main hive has three honey supers, I was told to leave one full one for the bees and have a brood chamber and one full medium. Two were 80 percent honey, the other 30 percent. Spin one and leave the rest??

I left a full one plus the partial on the hive. Seems a shame to not leave it for the bees to use but if it is wrong tell me and I will take it off.

Also, feed sugar water through the winter to suppliment?

thanks

Post by **Wally** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 4:56 pm

You can rob individual frames if needed. You don't have to rob the whole super. Just be sure you leave 9 or 10 frames in each box, or they will draw cross comb. In this area, you need to leave from at least 40 to 60 lbs. of stores for the winter. The rest you can take if it is capped. You do not have to take it if you don't want. You can leave 5 or 6 full boxes of honey on if that's what you want.

I hope this answers your question. I wasn't 100% sure exactly what you were asking.

p51d · Post by **p51d** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 6:28 pm

Thanks Wally. I robbed one super and left one full super for the bees. Above that super is another super with 4 frames somewhat built out. The rest of that super is some wax but no honey. I was asking if it is o.k. to leave it on the hive. Therefore it is 1.5 supers on top of the brood chamber.

I plan to feed with sugar water through the winter. Would a good idea be to also include pollen patties??

Newbie bee keeper as you can tell.

Post by **Wally** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:24 pm

There's no need to feed if there is 60 lb. or more honey on the hive.
Also, you don't want to feed anytime there are honey supers on the hive. You only feed when the hive is brood chamber only. If they store sugar water in the honey super, your honey next year will be contaminated with sugar.

You should decide what size brood chamber you are going to use permanently, then feed until that has enough stores to last the winter.
Honey supers can be kept on the hives over winter, but only if they aren't fed.

Same with pollen patties and medications, only the brood chamber, never the honey supers.

p51d · Post by **p51d** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:13 pm

Thanks for the information. The brood chamber is good with honey.

So if I treat for mites take everything off the brood chamber? No medium.

Last year my first bees starved and I lost them all. Would it be possible to pull the mediums, store them for a couple of months while the treatment works (if it is decided I need to treat?) Place them in late winter for suppliment?

Or skip the medium all together?

Most of the hives I see with a brood chamber and one medium. Just being real cautious.

Post by **Wally** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 8:45 pm

The size of the box does not determine brood chamber or super. You decide what you want to use for a brood chamber. It may be one deep, two deeps, one deep and one medium, three mediums, whatever you decide. Those remain on the hive year round.

Then you add your honey supers in the spring for the honey flow and remove them when full and capped. You do NOT treat for mites with YOUR HONEY super on. If you are going to use a deep and a medium for a brood chamber, then yes, you treat with both on.

I have a medium in my freezer which I will feed to the bees if needed after the first of the year, so yes, you can save a super and put it back on later.

I know my writing is as clear as mud, so if you want to call me, it's 336-302-2708.

p51d · Post by **p51d** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:35 pm

No, that is perfect and basically what I was asking. I plan on leaving a full and one medium for them, and will add honey supers in the spring.

The reasoning I was asking about the feeding is a beekeeper in the south part of the state told us he uses a entrance feeder most of the year when he was not collecting honey.

Another beekeeper said not to feed (that is what I did last year and lost my only hive) now I understand around AUgust to feed for te month...

I will give you a buzz if I get in a bind.

Agree it is smart to feed early spring before the supers go on...then in August????

the kid · Post by **the kid** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:59 pm

p51d
were are you any way??? its fri oct 26 11 pm and your post shows sat
oct 27 2:35 am
the kid

Post by **Wally** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 9:08 am

Kid, your profile is set for London time. Click on "profile" at the top of the page. Scroll down to the bottom. Where it says time zone, change it to -5.
That will put you on central time.

the kid · Post by **the kid** » Sun Oct 28, 2007 9:25 pm

man do feel dumb thanks
Im whith you p51d each keeper has ther own way ,, all us new bees can do is keep trying ways til we hit the one that works for us ...
I lost my hive last year cause it got wet ,, I wraped it ,, my only hive ( a keeper said thats what he did ,, workers for him but not for me )))
now lets try somthing differant this year ,,, hope I find one that works for me
the kid

p51d · Post by **p51d** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:22 pm

I am in Greensboro. Being a newbie it might seem I am over cautious but last year I lost my bees and I don't want that to happen again. Plus, looks like each beekeepers have different answers so I am trying to make since of all this.

I guess no one said it would be cheap,but is is kind of fun.

Thanks for all the responses to help the new kid.

the kid · Post by **the kid** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 1:39 am

no one said it was cheap ,, but then I didnt think it would be this much
and no one told me that it was so addicting eather... one hive leads to 6
and wanting more ..
the kid