What is a good paint to use on new hive equipment? What is the industry standard on painting the inside of the hive? Does anyone in this area use the oil hive treatment, leaving the hive natural? And last, does anyone in this area use the hive stand in addition to a bottom board?
Thanks
Hive Body Painting
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Kurt Bower
- Guard bee
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:04 pm
- Location: Julian, NC
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Hi guest!
Thanks for stopping by the forum.
Most beekeepers are frugal when it comes to their equipment and use what we refer to mis-tints or throw away paint from the larger hardware stores. I personally look for Extererior latex which has certain fungal resistant qualities.
Bees do not like the insides of the hives being painted and will reject the box if this is done. I guess their feral instincts tell them that the inside of a tree shouldnt be painted either. Painting the inside would not lend any advantages to the bees or beekeeper.
I am not familiar with the oil hive treatment, but will leave cypress equipment unpainted if I dont have the time to paint. Most people around here do paint.
I have never seen any advantage to a hive stand. I believe that equipment is sometimes made and used for the benefit of the beekeeper and not the bees. Bees dont have landing boards or hive stands in a feral setting and seem to do just fine.
best regards,
Kurt
Thanks for stopping by the forum.
Most beekeepers are frugal when it comes to their equipment and use what we refer to mis-tints or throw away paint from the larger hardware stores. I personally look for Extererior latex which has certain fungal resistant qualities.
Bees do not like the insides of the hives being painted and will reject the box if this is done. I guess their feral instincts tell them that the inside of a tree shouldnt be painted either. Painting the inside would not lend any advantages to the bees or beekeeper.
I am not familiar with the oil hive treatment, but will leave cypress equipment unpainted if I dont have the time to paint. Most people around here do paint.
I have never seen any advantage to a hive stand. I believe that equipment is sometimes made and used for the benefit of the beekeeper and not the bees. Bees dont have landing boards or hive stands in a feral setting and seem to do just fine.
best regards,
Kurt
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Guest
Here is the product that I am refering too
Here is a link to the product that I am refering too. If this is something else used to treat the wood and then paint, then I am simply mis reading.
http://www.mannlakeltd.com/catalog/page20.html
http://www.mannlakeltd.com/catalog/page20.html
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Kurt Bower
- Guard bee
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:04 pm
- Location: Julian, NC
- Contact:
You are correct in saying that Copper Napthenate is a one treatment fix.
While I have not had much experience with this product I do not like the smell.
Some people love it and some people will not use it. Some dip the entire piece of woodenware and some paint after treating.
With beekeepers there are always many ways of doing things.
Might just want to contact Mann Lake and ask them.
Kurt
While I have not had much experience with this product I do not like the smell.
Some people love it and some people will not use it. Some dip the entire piece of woodenware and some paint after treating.
With beekeepers there are always many ways of doing things.
Might just want to contact Mann Lake and ask them.
Kurt
hive body painting
First, let me say welcome...
I think a good exterior latex paint will protect 3 to 4 times as long as untreated, also. Maybe even longer. It also doesn't cost 34.00 a gallon. The last I bought at Swerwin-Williams, as Kurt said, a mis-match, retailed for 14.99 a gallon. I got 5 gallon for 32 dollars. Less than the cost of 1 gallon of napthenate.
Wally
I think a good exterior latex paint will protect 3 to 4 times as long as untreated, also. Maybe even longer. It also doesn't cost 34.00 a gallon. The last I bought at Swerwin-Williams, as Kurt said, a mis-match, retailed for 14.99 a gallon. I got 5 gallon for 32 dollars. Less than the cost of 1 gallon of napthenate.
Wally
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Guest
If I were to get into honey bees, which I have been debating for several years, how much stuff would I need to buy to support two hives? I really do not have a good idea of how many supers, hive bodies, and miscilanious equipment one would need to support two hives. I have a veil, gloves, smoker, and a thick pair of white coveralls.
You will need a hive tool...or screwdriver, or similiar.
You will need a hive and two supers for each hive you want to keep, plus a hive for the inevitable swarm you will catch.
You will need a mentor...There are 50 to 75 at the Guilford County Beekeepers assoc., free for using, who meet the second Tuesday of every month. Come see us, you will enjoy and learn from it.
You will need a hive and two supers for each hive you want to keep, plus a hive for the inevitable swarm you will catch.
You will need a mentor...There are 50 to 75 at the Guilford County Beekeepers assoc., free for using, who meet the second Tuesday of every month. Come see us, you will enjoy and learn from it.
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Guest
When I said hive, I meant whatever you are going to use as a brood chamber. Some use one deep super, or hive body, some use one deep and one super, some use two deeps. Then two supers to go on top of that. I think if you buy a package or nuc, two supers will be more than enough for this area the first year. By the second year, you will have learned what your particular area will produce and what you need to harvest it.
The days of beehaving, or just setting a hive on the back 40 and robbing every year are gone. To keep bees today, you must study all the different genetics, diseases, pests, and viruses and maintain the hives on a constant basis. Because of that, most beekeepers have sort of banded together to teach others all the new details of keeping as the new problems arise. We would much rather spend time with a new keeper than spend time trying to cure a problem the new keeper inadvertantly brought into the neighborhood.
Come join us at the monthly meeting. Visiting is free and the knowledge obtained is priceless.
The days of beehaving, or just setting a hive on the back 40 and robbing every year are gone. To keep bees today, you must study all the different genetics, diseases, pests, and viruses and maintain the hives on a constant basis. Because of that, most beekeepers have sort of banded together to teach others all the new details of keeping as the new problems arise. We would much rather spend time with a new keeper than spend time trying to cure a problem the new keeper inadvertantly brought into the neighborhood.
Come join us at the monthly meeting. Visiting is free and the knowledge obtained is priceless.
What about equipment storage in the off season.
What is the best method of storing equipment during the off season? I do not have a Garage, and my out building, well, I guess it is like most peoples out building, full, and too small! I was looking at a web page and can not recall what the address was, however, it showed an outdoor rack that was covered by a small roof section used for deep and for super storage while not in use.
Any thoughts.
Any thoughts.
Ron, "Now with bees"
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Kurt Bower
- Guard bee
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:04 pm
- Location: Julian, NC
- Contact:
There are many different methods for storing equipment. Most are adequate but the most important thing is to guard your drawn comb from wax moths getting in.
I have seen equipment stacked on a pallett and left out in the yard. Most times people then tarp up the top to keep the rain out.
I am now in the belief that storage in outdoors with plenty of light and air is the best. Equipment stored under a roof but no walls allows light and air to get into the supers which in turn discourages the wax moth from laying eggs. Supers are stacked alternatly allowing the most light in as possible.
Kurt
I have seen equipment stacked on a pallett and left out in the yard. Most times people then tarp up the top to keep the rain out.
I am now in the belief that storage in outdoors with plenty of light and air is the best. Equipment stored under a roof but no walls allows light and air to get into the supers which in turn discourages the wax moth from laying eggs. Supers are stacked alternatly allowing the most light in as possible.
Kurt