I'm currently taking the beekeeping class with the goal of establishing a hive or two in my yard for the benefit of my garden and the neighborhood. I'm getting overwhelmed by all of the reading and realize I just need to get started and learn by experience.
A few questions I hope you folks can help me with since I seem to find conflicting answers based upon my reading sources:
I plan on starting with the beginners kit from brushy mountain, should I plan on adding another hive body or super in my first year?
Should I expect to feed pollen patties and sugar water when I get my nuc to provide them with plenty of food while they are getting established?
Startup questions
I'll take a stab at this and hope others will feel free to join in. If you can start with 2 hives rather than 1 you will be in better shape. If you lose 1, and many do, you still have 1, and 2 hives give you more options for dealing with problems that may arise.
If you are starting with nucs, you should probably have more than 1 medium super with frames and foundation in place for each hive. If you've seen Michael Bush's website, you know that he uses all medium supers for ease and uniformity of equipment. In our area, most traditionally use a deep and a medium as brood areas and additional mediums for honey. Nucs can build up quickly and in a good year you may even get some honey to take. You would rather have a little too much equipment ready early than have to scramble for what may or may not be available. Last year during the flow, most supply houses were out of frames, foundation and supers for longer periods than were comfortable.
Feeding sugar water and pollen patties really depends on when you get your bees and what is available to them. If the nectar flow has not started you will want to feed sugar water to help the bees draw out comb and raise brood. You can search the posts on this site to get ideas of when past flows have started (early-mid April). Depending on the natural pollen around , the bees may or may not take the patty. You can get an idea of pollen in the area by going to www.pollen.com If you are going to try pollen patties, start with either a third or half of a patty to see if the bees are going to take it. You would not want to put more in the hive than they will consume in about 5-7 days. Any more than that is an invitation to small hive beetles. By limiting the amount/time of patty in the hive you prevent the small hive beetles from being able to lay eggs on the patty and have the eggs hatch.
This is my take on your questions. It is rare that you will have a question in an area of beekeeping that is so well settled that there won't be more than 2-3 opinions. That's part of the fun of it.
If you are starting with nucs, you should probably have more than 1 medium super with frames and foundation in place for each hive. If you've seen Michael Bush's website, you know that he uses all medium supers for ease and uniformity of equipment. In our area, most traditionally use a deep and a medium as brood areas and additional mediums for honey. Nucs can build up quickly and in a good year you may even get some honey to take. You would rather have a little too much equipment ready early than have to scramble for what may or may not be available. Last year during the flow, most supply houses were out of frames, foundation and supers for longer periods than were comfortable.
Feeding sugar water and pollen patties really depends on when you get your bees and what is available to them. If the nectar flow has not started you will want to feed sugar water to help the bees draw out comb and raise brood. You can search the posts on this site to get ideas of when past flows have started (early-mid April). Depending on the natural pollen around , the bees may or may not take the patty. You can get an idea of pollen in the area by going to www.pollen.com If you are going to try pollen patties, start with either a third or half of a patty to see if the bees are going to take it. You would not want to put more in the hive than they will consume in about 5-7 days. Any more than that is an invitation to small hive beetles. By limiting the amount/time of patty in the hive you prevent the small hive beetles from being able to lay eggs on the patty and have the eggs hatch.
This is my take on your questions. It is rare that you will have a question in an area of beekeeping that is so well settled that there won't be more than 2-3 opinions. That's part of the fun of it.
"I plan on starting with the beginners kit from brushy mountain, should I plan on adding another hive body or super in my first year? "
It would depend on if you start with a package or nuc, the nuc will be ahead of the package since it is a mini hive and the package will have to start by drawing comb.
The beginner kit I saw on Brushy's web site consisted of one deep so for starting with a nuc I would plan on adding a hive body and/or one or two mediums. A lot will depend on the flow. I also agree with Jacobs about ordering early because things may be hard to find when you need them.
"Should I expect to feed pollen patties and sugar water when I get my nuc to provide them with plenty of food while they are getting established?"
I would definitely have some type of feeder for syrup: entrance feeder, frame feeder, hive top feeder or open feed. I like the hive top feeder and do some open feeding. But keep an eye on the brood chamber because they may fill it full and not leave a place for the queen to lay, which may lead to swarming
I agree with Jacobs on the pollen patties, they may not touch them when there is flow on but be careful how much you put on because the small hive beetle will find them.
It would depend on if you start with a package or nuc, the nuc will be ahead of the package since it is a mini hive and the package will have to start by drawing comb.
The beginner kit I saw on Brushy's web site consisted of one deep so for starting with a nuc I would plan on adding a hive body and/or one or two mediums. A lot will depend on the flow. I also agree with Jacobs about ordering early because things may be hard to find when you need them.
"Should I expect to feed pollen patties and sugar water when I get my nuc to provide them with plenty of food while they are getting established?"
I would definitely have some type of feeder for syrup: entrance feeder, frame feeder, hive top feeder or open feed. I like the hive top feeder and do some open feeding. But keep an eye on the brood chamber because they may fill it full and not leave a place for the queen to lay, which may lead to swarming
I agree with Jacobs on the pollen patties, they may not touch them when there is flow on but be careful how much you put on because the small hive beetle will find them.
I did the class a couple of years ago so use the painful lessons as already pointed out.
Do two hives the first year. It stinks when the one you nutured dies (it was my fault by the way).
I always have a extra honey super plus the brood (see above mistake)
I don't like the BM plastic entrance feeder, you have to pull the thing out and it really ticks the bees off. I prefer the quart jar and drip lid on the front.
Use pollen patties.
Rely on the beekeepers on this board.
Very important!!! Ask when you need to feed. My investment died in AUgust!!
Do two hives the first year. It stinks when the one you nutured dies (it was my fault by the way).
I always have a extra honey super plus the brood (see above mistake)
I don't like the BM plastic entrance feeder, you have to pull the thing out and it really ticks the bees off. I prefer the quart jar and drip lid on the front.
Use pollen patties.
Rely on the beekeepers on this board.
Very important!!! Ask when you need to feed. My investment died in AUgust!!
When the class is over, you will be offered the services of a mentor. Take it. Get their phone number and go visit them often. With the answers you get on this forum, combined with hands on at your mentor's bee yard, you should be successful the first year. Yes, if at all possible, get two hives the first year. It will make many things possible that wouldn't be otherwise.
another tip when you are ready to spin for the first time or need to get the bees to move.
Purchase Bee Quick from Wally versus Bee Go
Bee Go smells like a skunk died 10 years ago....I triple bag the stuff as it smells that bad. Another tip...never ever leave it in a car even for 5 minutes.....your wife will never ever let you live it down.
Bee Quick smells like almonds and your wife will be much more receptive to your new hobby.
Learn from our mistakes.
Purchase Bee Quick from Wally versus Bee Go
Bee Go smells like a skunk died 10 years ago....I triple bag the stuff as it smells that bad. Another tip...never ever leave it in a car even for 5 minutes.....your wife will never ever let you live it down.
Bee Quick smells like almonds and your wife will be much more receptive to your new hobby.
Learn from our mistakes.