I got my first hive last Spring and believe it or not, despite all my mess-ups, they're still here! Must have a will to live!
I didn't medicate at all last year but I think this year I will. Right as I was going to put on a shallow honey super last year I saw the mites, and began treatment with powdered sugar, which of course prohibited the harvesting of any honey. I don't want that same situation this year naturally.
So...where do I start? I've looked at all the different meds. available on Dadant and Brush Mountain and now I'm thoroughly confused. Help!
harleechik70
Have you done any mite counts using the sticky boards or sugar shake or alcohol wash? It would be good to get that mite count first to see what level of mite infestation you have.
I think we are all waiting for the new Mite-Away Quick Strips to be approved and become available but it may be awhile.
If you want to stay with the softer chemicals there is Apiguard it uses thymol. There is also Formic acid or continue using the powered sugar, not sure why you would not take the honey when using powered sugar, I don't know of any reason not to.
Ski
Mite-Away Quick Strips™ Treatment for Varroa Mites
Active ingredient is formic acid
Treatment period is only 7 days
2 strips are placed between the brood chambers
No extra equipment is required
Can be used between 50 and 92 degrees F.
Can be used mid summer, with honey supers on the hive
Mites are killed both on the bees and under the cap with 95% efficacy
Bees dispose of the pads
I don't have any mites at the moment, but I was wanting information to have on hand for this coming season. That way I can purchase what I'll need potentially need and have it on hand. It seems most beekeepers have a set schedule, and I'm totally ignorant about what to apply and when, for preventative measures.
I was under the impression I couldn't get honey from the hive if I was using the powdered sugar, for the same reason I wouldn't get honey if I was feeding syrup. I assumed by them cleaning themselves of the sugar they'd produce not-so-yummy honey. Am I correct in that thinking?
As soon as I can start feeding 1:1 sugar water, I will feed my bees the Spring treatment of Fumagilin-B to prevent nosema. I would also feed this to any new package or any nuc unless I knew it had received this. It comes in a small bottle in powdered form and you mix it in the sugar water according to the chart that comes with it. Even though the directions say it is best mixed in 2:1 sugar water, I am more concerned with the bees getting the right amount of medicine.
I have been told by one of our members who participated in a research effort involving nosema to be sure and mix it with room temperature sugar water. This person had treated hives mixing it in warm water. The bees tested for high levels of nosema spores (even though the hive looked healthy) and the researchers called with the results and with instructions to treat immediately. The instructions say store the medication away from sunlight, but caution would dictate also taking the precaution of mixing it in room temperature sugar water.
As soon as we have a 3+ day stretch of 50°F weather or more, I plan to do a mite count with sticky boards. It takes a very low number of mites to be at treatment threshold for Spring, and I plan to treat as needed. There are several choices you can use, and I am also hoping the quick strips will be approved for use sometime this year.
I would not take honey that had been made by bees fed sugar water. This is made into "sugar water honey" which is good for feeding back to the bees. I would think that the very miniscule amounts of sugar the bees might consume from powdered sugar dustings would not present the same dilution issues and I would take honey from hives that had been dusted. (The medicines you use should give instructions about time needed between finishing treatments and placing of honey supers on a hive for collection of honey for consumption.)
Are we talking treating for mites or nosema here. If nosema, fumidil is the way to go.
If we are talking varroa mite, any preventive treatment a beek does is totally wrong. DON'T FIX WHAT AIN'T BROKE. You need to check each colony and treat only the ones that have a high mite count for the size of colony and the time of year.
Preventive treatments for varroa is worse than no treatment at all. It will only give you resistant mites that you won't be able to kill later.
