Hello,
I was in the spring beekeeping class at the Guilford AG center. I have set up 3 hives about 2 weeks ago, and purchased 3 packages locally. All 3 still have bees and some comb, so after 10 days I added a second brood house to each hive. I fed syrup the first 10 days to help them get started. I think I'm doing everything I learned in class, but I was wondering if there are any experienced beekeepers in the Stokesdale area that wouldn't mind stopping by for a half hour and giving my setup a lookover. If anyone is interested please call me at 210-9380. Thanks for any help.
Mike DeHaan
help for a new beekeeper
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- Guard bee
- Posts: 692
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- Location: Julian, NC
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Hi Mike and welcome aboard!
I am sure someone will respond to your request shortly, but in the meantime let me make a couple of suggestions.
Basically the honey flow in this area is over for the spring. The timing of your packages was a little late to take advantage and give you all that you need. I understand that the package delivery was a late this spring as was most of the bees that people got.
Your bees will not be able to draw any more comb without your help!
Bees must have a strong nectar flow (artificial or natural) in order to draw comb correctly. I strongly encourage you to begin feeding immediately until they have all the comb drawn out that they will need to survive.
Unless your first deep brood chamber is fully drawn, I also would suggest removing the 2nd one you just added. The rule of thumb is not to add additional supers (shallow, medium or deep) until the bees have drawn approx. 85% of the existing foundation. If you add supers too early, the bees will work up and not out. They prefer moving up and you will then be left with undrawn comb indefinately.
Mike, keep feeding those bees until they have filled everything out and are strong enough to over-winter.
Kurt
I am sure someone will respond to your request shortly, but in the meantime let me make a couple of suggestions.
Basically the honey flow in this area is over for the spring. The timing of your packages was a little late to take advantage and give you all that you need. I understand that the package delivery was a late this spring as was most of the bees that people got.
Your bees will not be able to draw any more comb without your help!
Bees must have a strong nectar flow (artificial or natural) in order to draw comb correctly. I strongly encourage you to begin feeding immediately until they have all the comb drawn out that they will need to survive.
Unless your first deep brood chamber is fully drawn, I also would suggest removing the 2nd one you just added. The rule of thumb is not to add additional supers (shallow, medium or deep) until the bees have drawn approx. 85% of the existing foundation. If you add supers too early, the bees will work up and not out. They prefer moving up and you will then be left with undrawn comb indefinately.
Mike, keep feeding those bees until they have filled everything out and are strong enough to over-winter.
Kurt
Curiousity
I am curious about something. It seems to me that bees and keeping them are a bit expensive. If a new beekeeper were to order the hive equipment needed, frames and all, package bees, sugar syrup to feed the bees, medication for fall and winter, what would bee the ivestment?
It seems like this could quite easily get to be a rather expensive hobby?
Fun, but almost like a money pit!
It seems like this could quite easily get to be a rather expensive hobby?
Fun, but almost like a money pit!
I would guess about 350.00 for the first year. Compare that to about 3 days on the golf course, minus the hangover. I think it's a pretty good deal. Also, the subsequent years will be cheaper per hive, and the golf course will be more. Then you reap the harvest the second year. One super will give approx. 10 quarts of honey that sells for 10.00 per quart.
Don't even think fishing. I've already spent 500 there and haven't caught 10 dollars worth of fish.
Don't even think fishing. I've already spent 500 there and haven't caught 10 dollars worth of fish.