Just wondering if the swarm season is over in this area. Saw a beekeeper at the NC Zoo the other day that had an observation hive set up. He had just pulled a frame out and placed it in the hive for the day, and did not even have the queen. On the bottom of the frame appeared to be a queen cell, or maybe even some bur comb, not really sure.
Anyway, he advised that he had already taken honey off of that particular hive, and they were a bit angry, so he did not spend much time trying to find the queen. Is is too early to be removing honey? He was from Chatham County.
Also, is the old ryme true to this area. Swarm in May worth a bail of hay, Swarm in June worth a silver spoon, and A Swarm in July will surly die!!
Swarm Season
Not quite over yet. I am still getting calls for swarms.
I have taken honey off this year. I take it off anytime all the frames in a box are fully capped. I am in Randolph county.
Yes, that saying applied to this area before we started feeding the bees sugar water and corn syrup. Now a July hive can build up enough to make it through the winter if they are fed heavily.
I have taken honey off this year. I take it off anytime all the frames in a box are fully capped. I am in Randolph county.
Yes, that saying applied to this area before we started feeding the bees sugar water and corn syrup. Now a July hive can build up enough to make it through the winter if they are fed heavily.
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Kurt Bower
- Guard bee
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I personally have not gotten any swarm calls in 2-3 weeks. I would say that the majority of swarming seems to occur beteen late March and mid May around here.
I also believe the old saying is oriented more up North as is the old saying "knee high by the fourth of July" referring to the height of corn.
In this area things seem to run about a month ahead of the old sayings.
You can easily make splits as late as September and have them come through winter if done properly.
Kurt
I also believe the old saying is oriented more up North as is the old saying "knee high by the fourth of July" referring to the height of corn.
In this area things seem to run about a month ahead of the old sayings.
You can easily make splits as late as September and have them come through winter if done properly.
Kurt
Mice and ants are easily controlled. I have never seen either foulbrood here, tho there may have been or may be some in the area. I don't know.
Mites are getting under control. I have seen decreased damage from them each year since 2001.
Hive beetles have arrived, but have not become a big problem as of yet. A strong hive can take care of them, and there are controls out for them.
NEXT???
Mites are getting under control. I have seen decreased damage from them each year since 2001.
Hive beetles have arrived, but have not become a big problem as of yet. A strong hive can take care of them, and there are controls out for them.
NEXT???
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Kurt Bower
- Guard bee
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I agree with Wally.
Mites are manageable.
I on the other hand have had both American and European foulbrood.
The key to these two is understanding your bees enough to detect early.
They are frustrating but not a show stopper.
Small hive beetle is a consistent pest but I have had no serious side affect from these beasts. I have found up to a couple dozen in any given hive without ill effects.
Kurt
Mites are manageable.
I on the other hand have had both American and European foulbrood.
The key to these two is understanding your bees enough to detect early.
They are frustrating but not a show stopper.
Small hive beetle is a consistent pest but I have had no serious side affect from these beasts. I have found up to a couple dozen in any given hive without ill effects.
Kurt
Last edited by Kurt Bower on Wed Jun 21, 2006 4:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
So, How do you best situate your hives. Do you build a stand to place them on, or place them on a concrete block? What is the best method. Also, do you recoment a manipulation cloth when working in the hive? Mr. Bower, you are closest to where I live, as I am in McLeansville. Both you and Wally have answered a bunch of question for me when I would post as a guest, and the knowledge is priceless.
Would you ever consider allowing someone to assist you with your bees for the experience???
Would you ever consider allowing someone to assist you with your bees for the experience???
Ron, "Now with bees"
Ron, I think I can answer that question for you a little better than Kurt.
He is a very friendly person who likes to help everyone, maybe even to the point of hurting himself. He works full time and uses his limited free time to "work" his bees.
On the other hand, I am semi retired and don't look to my bees for profit, but for fun and enjoyment. Where it may be a problem setting favorable times for both you and kurt, I am available at all times.
I never "work" my bees, I "play" in my hives. I can and will open them at any time for any reason, where kurt only opens them when there is something he needs to check or do. I am available to go into my hives with you anytime you are free and the weather permits, and would be more than happy to do so.
Also, I am only about 10 minutes farther than kurt's house.
He is a very friendly person who likes to help everyone, maybe even to the point of hurting himself. He works full time and uses his limited free time to "work" his bees.
On the other hand, I am semi retired and don't look to my bees for profit, but for fun and enjoyment. Where it may be a problem setting favorable times for both you and kurt, I am available at all times.
I never "work" my bees, I "play" in my hives. I can and will open them at any time for any reason, where kurt only opens them when there is something he needs to check or do. I am available to go into my hives with you anytime you are free and the weather permits, and would be more than happy to do so.
Also, I am only about 10 minutes farther than kurt's house.
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Kurt Bower
- Guard bee
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- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:04 pm
- Location: Julian, NC
- Contact:
Right again!
I mentor on a very limited basis. I am not opposed to helping anyone, but between my full time (50+hours/ week) and my small beekeeping business (25+hours a week) I am left with barely enough time to sleep.
Wally is always helpful and can show you things from the ground up!
best regards,
Kurt
I mentor on a very limited basis. I am not opposed to helping anyone, but between my full time (50+hours/ week) and my small beekeeping business (25+hours a week) I am left with barely enough time to sleep.
Wally is always helpful and can show you things from the ground up!
best regards,
Kurt
Sounds good to me. When will you be taking honey off? I live just north of Mcleansville itself. I am a firefighter for Gboro. so I am off two out of three days. However, I keep my little girl on my days off when my wife is working. She only works two days a week though so I am available quite a bit.
Ron, "Now with bees"
I doubt I will be taking anymore honey off. I spent this evening taking apart a house in High Point to remove a swarm. I have to go one day next week and take the flashing off the fourth story of a motel in Greensboro and remove a swarm. Unless I get an emergency call I should be available anyday for the next 5 days if you want to come down. Your little girl can stay in the house with my wife if you want to bring her. She's a pretty good grandma.
We can just go into the bees here in the yard and play around awhile to see how they are coming along and look for whatever you would like to look for.
You can call me at either
302-2708, or 498-2685.
Wally
We can just go into the bees here in the yard and play around awhile to see how they are coming along and look for whatever you would like to look for.
You can call me at either
302-2708, or 498-2685.
Wally
I really enjoyed spending time with you in your bees the other day. I have been wanting to get back into bees for a while now, and I can see it happening next spring. I really wish I had done it this past spring, however, I did not do it.
When you split a hive, you were telling me how long it took to get a queen cell developed, hatched, mated, and laying. If the queen that the colony raises themselves does not turn out to be a god laying queen, or appears to be laying all drone brood, what would be the best option then. Kill the queen, and allow the colony to raise a second queen, or place a purchased queen into the colony.
The reason that I ask, is that I have been considering your advice of starting with one colony, then doing a split. My second question in this direction is, how experienced does one need to be in order to do a successful split? Can a beginner expect to do it?
Thanks again for your time the other day.
When you split a hive, you were telling me how long it took to get a queen cell developed, hatched, mated, and laying. If the queen that the colony raises themselves does not turn out to be a god laying queen, or appears to be laying all drone brood, what would be the best option then. Kill the queen, and allow the colony to raise a second queen, or place a purchased queen into the colony.
The reason that I ask, is that I have been considering your advice of starting with one colony, then doing a split. My second question in this direction is, how experienced does one need to be in order to do a successful split? Can a beginner expect to do it?
Thanks again for your time the other day.
Ron, "Now with bees"
The easiest way is split the brood frames evenly, making sure at least one frame in each one contains eggs. Five to fourteen days later, inclusive, one will have eggs and the other will have queen cells. For stronger hives in both, leave the one with queen cells in the original location. In 25 to 30 days after the split, you will have eggs from the new queen. You can change the genetics of the hive and get eggs about 25 days earlier by buying a bred queen. The same if a queen is doing badly. Buy one now and get eggs in 3 to 5 days, or raise your own and get eggs in about 30 days.
http://www.ncagr.com/plantind/doc/PermitToSell.rtf
Wally,
Are the dealers listed on this link the only ones that are available for the purchase fo bees in NC.
Also, one thing that I have read that I neglected to ask you the other day. I have read in several places that if a colony swarms, that that colony will not be able to produce surplus honey that year. Is this true? I know that you are more into bee's for the bee's and not honey, but I was wondering if you tried to prevent swarming at all, or just let nature take its course?
Will a colony swarm more than once in a year? And does splitting a colony reduce swarming?
I was also wondering about the queen in colonies that you take out of trees, houses and so on. Do you try and make sure to get the queen, or do you let the colony raise one? If you take the colony out of the motel, will you try and establish them as a seperate colony, or will you combine them with an existing one? Also, when do you plan to try and get them?
Thanks
Wally,
Are the dealers listed on this link the only ones that are available for the purchase fo bees in NC.
Also, one thing that I have read that I neglected to ask you the other day. I have read in several places that if a colony swarms, that that colony will not be able to produce surplus honey that year. Is this true? I know that you are more into bee's for the bee's and not honey, but I was wondering if you tried to prevent swarming at all, or just let nature take its course?
Will a colony swarm more than once in a year? And does splitting a colony reduce swarming?
I was also wondering about the queen in colonies that you take out of trees, houses and so on. Do you try and make sure to get the queen, or do you let the colony raise one? If you take the colony out of the motel, will you try and establish them as a seperate colony, or will you combine them with an existing one? Also, when do you plan to try and get them?
Thanks
Ron, "Now with bees"
Anyone in NC can sell up to 10 hives each year without registering as a dealer.
A swarm can produce surplus honey in a good year. Most do not.
I try weakly to prevent swarms. There are many things that can be done to reduce swarming that I do not do. I split one hive this year to prevent swarming and that hive subsequently swarmed 4 times.
When I extract a colony I try to put a frame of eggs and brood in the box I put them in. I try very hard to get the queen, but if I don't, then they raise their own.
I seldom combine unless I have two hives of less than 2 lbs. of bees each.
I plan to go to the motel Monday and assess the situation. Then I will plan when and how to get them.
A swarm can produce surplus honey in a good year. Most do not.
I try weakly to prevent swarms. There are many things that can be done to reduce swarming that I do not do. I split one hive this year to prevent swarming and that hive subsequently swarmed 4 times.
When I extract a colony I try to put a frame of eggs and brood in the box I put them in. I try very hard to get the queen, but if I don't, then they raise their own.
I seldom combine unless I have two hives of less than 2 lbs. of bees each.
I plan to go to the motel Monday and assess the situation. Then I will plan when and how to get them.